June 2009- Mont Blanc 4810m North Face via 3 Monts (D 30°-40°)

Posted: January 26, 2010 in Ski, tour

I had missed out on sking mont blanc with some friends earlier in the year because of work. So when chris and tom wanted to go and climb it, i invited Brendan along to ski with me. The snow level was quite high due to the time of year so we set off from the Midi on the 3 Monts route. I was hoping to be able to skin up part of the way but this was not possible, so it was skis on the back the whole way. This made it hard work with my kingswood fat skis which are 120mm underfoot and very heavy with marker duke bindings on.

The route down as seen from the top of Brevent.

Sking on the North face, im the black dot on the right hand side.

Once at the top we had a small rest before setting off down the north face, the route finding was easy as Brendan had snow boarded the same route a few months earlier. The snow on the top was wind affected but still good  to ski and once we got lower it turned into lovely transformed spring snow which was great on the powder skis. We had one small repell of about 15m past a serac off of an ice screw thread but the route did not realy pose any technical difficulties. Once down to the Bosson glacier there was little snow left so we crossed roped up, even so it is still a scary area in the summer with huge open crevasses and seracs everywhere. Once off the other side we had to walk back to the mid station of the Midi lift as there was no snow left. This took a lot longer than expected as it is a quick traverse on skis and was probably the hardest work of the whole trip. I would recomend going when you can still ski back to at least the mid station! Hopefully will get a decent off of the Italian side next year.


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