October 11th 2009- Triangle du Tacul 3970m North West Slope (TD 50°-55°)

Posted: January 26, 2010 in extreme, Ski

We were keen to get up the mountain for a ski before the season started and it had been raining in chamonix which ment snow up high. This face is often just ice in the winter as the snow does not stick to it when it is too cold. I had been climbing in the area recently and had seen the face was covered with snow, so Brendan, Kieran and I set off for the first bin in hope of  a good ski. The Ski line can be seen below.

A view of the route on the way over to it.

There had been a lot of fresh snow at the top, so the lift was delayed. As it was interseason and the lift was closing early we had a limit amount of time and we were all reasonably unfit. It was a perfect morning with not a cloud in sight and we set off with high hopes. Due to the time of year there were a lot of open crevasses on the way over and some just hidden by the fresh snow so safety was the order of the day.

After walking down the arete which was not skiable we skied as far as we could before roping up and starting the climb. There was about a foot of fresh snow making progress reasonably slow up the start of the normal route of the Tacul. Once passing the bergshrund on the triangle this became less of an issue and we progressed more quickly. As suspected the face was in condition and was a nice ski, unfortunatly however the weather started to come in and we skied in flat light. We just about made the last lift down all feeling pretty tired having not skied for a few months. Thanks to Kieran for taking the photos which can be seen below.

Leaving the Midi lift station.

Sorting out the rope to cross a large crevasse.

Brendan getting ready for the uphill with the Triangle behind him.

The sun coming up to the left of the Triangle.

Me resting with the Midi in the background.

Brendan on the way up the start of the normal route putting the boot pack in.

The NW slope on the left.

One of the seracs.

Brendan in action.

Axes ready in case of a slip.

Me sking between the rocks and seracs.

Taking a breether, havn't got ski legs yet.

Looking back up at me sking the face.

The photographer Kieran in the lift back down.


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