Grandes Jorrasses North Face- Croz spur with Slovenian start

Posted: October 13, 2011 in Alpine, Climb
Tags: , , ,

The north face of the Grandes Jorasses, our route marked in red.

Two weeks ago Tom and i headed up to the Grandes Jorasses for the croz spur, we had been told it was in good conditions other than the top which was dry. We walked up to the Leschaux hut on Wednesday afternoon, we chose not to carry bivi gear and our initial plan was to go from the hut up the route and get back to Chamonix in a day.

It took us much longer than planned to reach the bottom of the route due to a few errors getting through the glacier and having to retrace our steps. We met with two of our friends, Jon and Will who had bivied near the bottom of their route and were having similar difficulties to us. We wished each other good luck and set off our own ways, them to the legendary ‘No Siesta’ and us further right to the Croz.

The burgshrund was a little tricky and was then followed by some black ice, i was leading the first block and thinking to myself about bailing if the ice didnt get better. However soon enough we were in the ice runnels which were in great condition and we made good progress moving together swaping leads every few hundred meters. The climbing was excellent and varied, pure ice, mixed ground and rock climbing with bare hands and crampons.

We had made good time and reached two pitches from the end in about 7 hours after crossing the burshrund. Here we met up with another party who had chosen a heavier approach and were on their second day on the route. The top of the route was in dry conditions and we slowed down from there, discussing with the others the best options to finish and then climbing sociably to the top. 9 hours on the route in total which wasnt to bad but our prolonged approach ment we would be going to the Boccalatte hut and not down to the valley.

Once down to a safe spot we stopped to eat and drink while it got dark. I was pretty tired by then only haven eaten a few cereal bars all day a drunk 1 liter of water. The other two climbers decided to spend the night there but we continued on to the hut in the dark with no other choice due to our fast and light approach.

A great experiance and my favorite alpine route to date, it was also my first time on the Grandes Jorrasses and I definatly want to go back, so many great looking routes on the face!

Me exiting a mixed gully about half way up.

Looking up at the rock pitches on the crest of the spur.

Looking across at points Walker and Whymper from the same spot.

sharing a belay after catching up with the other party, (me on the left)

The second to last pitch, the other guys climbed this but i climbed a very thin gully just to the right.

Also check out Jon’s Video he made of him and Will on the same route a couple of years ago, it really gives a good sense of the route.

  1. […] Grandes Jorrasses North Face- Croz spur with Slovenian start « Exploring the Mountains. […]

  2. […] Grandes Jorrasses North Face- Croz spur with Slovenian start « Exploring the Mountains […]

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