Matterhorn North Face- Schmidt Route

Posted: October 22, 2011 in Alpine, Climb
Tags: , , ,
Matterhorn North Face.

Matterhorn North Face.

After our success on the Grandes Jorasses Tom and I decided to head over to Zermat to try the matterhorn. We drove over on sunday morning knowing we had a bit of a walk as the lift was closed.
The face looled pretty dry but reports from others said the conditions were good so we decided to go for it. There is a fixed rope in place to get up onto the glacier to start the route which we yarded up in the dark. We hadnt checked it out the day before but aparently it is also possible to climb an ice fall further right.
Once up onto the glacier you traverse right untill the start of the route where the burgshrund is easily passed at the moment. The next few hours are a calf burning romp up the initial ramp but once you get to the end of this the interesting climbing starts.
The route trends rightward across the face following mixed gullies and walls and dry rock traverses between them. There is even a water fall pitch at 4000m. After this and another traverse the dificulties end and you follow easy angled mixed ground all the way to the top, and its worth the effort what a view!
All in all a great climb that went smoothly, we managed to decend to the Slovay hut in the light for a good nights sleep and some food and felt re energised for our walk down to Zermat where we had a nice healthy mc donalds to finish our trip!
Tom got some cool pics of me on the route which are below.

Walking up to the hut

Walking up to the hut © Tom Grant

Coming to the start of the technical climbing after the initial ice field. © Tom Grant

Coming to the start of the technical climbing after the initial ice field. © Tom Grant

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Fun mixed climbing © Tom Grant

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A little runout on thin ice and lose rock. © Tom Grant

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More great mixed. © Tom Grant

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Traversing not long after the waterfall pitch. © Tom Grant

Nearing the summit slopes. © Tom Grant

Nearing the summit slopes. © Tom Grant

Tom on the summit.

Tom on the summit.

Me on the summit. © Tom Grant

Me on the summit. © Tom Grant

Descending fixed ropes at the top of the Hornli. © Tom Grant

Descending fixed ropes at the top of the Hornli. © Tom Grant

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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