Dru North Couloir

Posted: November 19, 2012 in Alpine, Climb, Ice, Rock
Tags: ,

On Friday myself and Tom Grant headed up from the Montenvers for the Dru North couloir, along with Ben and Ally who were off for another route on the same mountain. The walk in to the bivi was a little arduous due to some unconsolidated snow and heavy packs!

We got an early start and made good progress up the initial couloir and climbed the two pitches which are normally mixed up to the Nomine crack without knowing, as they were covered in good neve. In the dark we didn’t realise we were only meters from the start of the Nomine and continued straight up a long pitch of mixed. Above loomed a steep and scary looking chimney corner, and i presumed we had wondered into the direct, so we rapped off and headed left to mixed gully we could just make out far off left.

As we arrived to its base it got light and we soon realised our mistake and made the traverse back to the Nomine crack. We had wasted alot of time but decided to continue hoping to climb the rock section quickly. Its no push over and took longer than we had hoped so at 2pm at the top of the off- width pitch we decided we weren’t up for a descent in the dark and turned around. A good decision as it was nice to be in our own beds that night!

The route is in very good condition and with our new knowledge of the route hopefully we will nip back up for a quick ascent in the next couple of weeks. I forgot my camera but Tom got some nice photos.

Image

Our bivi spot.

Image

Me climbing the Nomine crack.

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