Archive for the ‘Alpine’ Category

Whymper Couloir © Tom Grant

Whymper Couloir © Tom Grant

Back at the end of Feburary I headed up the Aiguille Verte again, this time with Tom Grant to ski the Whymper. The afternoons were still cold and we decided to climb up the Courturier from first lift. It was fast going until we reached the Calotte, where we found pockets of dangerous wind slab and some very open crevasses. We had to get the rope out and set up a few belays to pass safely and lost a lot of time trying to find the best way through. In hind sight it would have been better to carry on up the direct exit moving together over the grey ice.  Determined not to get shut down so near the top we pushed on and finally arrived on the summit at about 2pm both feeling the altitude. (more…)

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Ski line in Red with down climbs marked in Green.

Yesterday myself and Jon Griffith headed up to the Argentiere basin for a bit of cardio training, the plan was to climb both the Couturier couloir on the Aiguille Verte and the Legarde direct on Les Droites. Unfortunately i woke up with a bit of a cough and cold so the plan changed to just one route. We got on the first lift up and i decided to take my skis up the route to see if any of it was skiable. We were stood on the summit by 12.30pm and although the skiing conditions were far from ideal with hard snow and ice close to the surface, i managed to ski most of the couloir, with one short down climb of about 15m and one longer one of around 100m. I would love to find this couloir in good condition one day and make a proper descent with no down climbing and GS turns but im still satisfied to have skied down this legendary line.  Thanks to Jon for the day and his great photos, more here…

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/7156536-eiger-n-face-couturier-couloir-encore-une-fois-a-busy-few-weeks (more…)

Our route up the Migot spur in red and downthe West couloir in yellow.

Our route up the Migot spur in red and down the West couloir in yellow.

After recent good steep skiing conditions and some cool descents from other teams myself and Tom Grant were keen to ski something ourselves. However we had just had a week of bad weather and a lot of fresh snow and so we questioned the safety of skiing a big line. We decided to head up to the Albert 1ier refuge with the  Migot spur  in the back of our minds (which saw its first descent just the weekend before,) but happy just to do some mellow skiing on the glacier. (more…)

Dru North Couloir

Posted: November 19, 2012 in Alpine, Climb, Ice, Rock
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On Friday myself and Tom Grant headed up from the Montenvers for the Dru North couloir, along with Ben and Ally who were off for another route on the same mountain. The walk in to the bivi was a little arduous due to some unconsolidated snow and heavy packs! (more…)

A couple of weeks ago i was climbing granite with rock shoes and a chalk bag on the Cordier pillar but the weather has completely changed since then and this weekend it was nice to get back on the ice axes with some great mixed climbing on the Triangle du Tacul. Autumn is definitely here and some of the big north faces look like they are quickly coming into condition. (more…)

As skiing conditions were poor Tom Grant and i decided to see if a route we had wanted to climb for a while was in condition. We got the second bin to the top of Grands Montets with Late to say im sorry as our target. (more…)

I havnt blogged in a while because my computer has been broken, but the last few months in chamonix have been good ones. Myself and Luca Pandolfi skied the Rabbit Ears which is a cool little line i hadnt skied before, check out Lucas report- http://www.lucapandolfi.com/2012/03/rabbit-ears-10-03-2012/

After that we had a long period of sunny warm weather but no snow so i took the oportunity to do some climbing, some sunny perfect granite on Mort de Rire on the aiguille du genipi with Luca and a mixed climb on the aiguille Verte north face called Late to say im sorry with Tom Grant. This was a great route with some of the best climbing in the mountains i have done, we got a lot of cool pictures so i will put them up in another post.

Pic of the Rabbit Ears

Now we are getting loads of snow and have been making quick hits on the rond, cosmiques ect. Hopefully the mountains will be coming into steep sking condition because of it and we can ski some big lines when the sun comes back!